“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to
find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a
necessity”
― John Muir
 |
| Buscalan |
Perched at roughly 1100 meters in the Cordillera Mountains, enveloped by green covered slopes and terraced rice field sits the remote town of Buscalan. Clouds meander through, below and above fashioning ever changing vistas. The Butbut tribe, a tribe of roughly 7000, are spread across five villages in Kalinga. Buscalan is home to nearly 1000 tribe members. Their unique culture and way of life makes this village an incredible place to visit.
The locals told us there was no electricity until 2007 and every one would gather, talk and share stories around the nightly bonfire. Now there is no nightly bonfire, instead they gather in front of their TVs, portable DVD players and play on their cell phones, tablets and laptops. Before 2007 there was not much need for money. They have resident blacksmiths, and weavers, they raise pigs and chickens, coffee grows wild, vegetables were cultivated or bartered for and they are surrounded by rice terraces centuries old.
 |
| An elder weaves while his pig looks on |
My wife and I had long been talking about making a trip to visit the legend Whang-od, and finally in January of 2015, we made it happen. We had planned to stay a night or two and ended up staying 6 nights; we fell in love with Buscalan, the simplicity, the tranquility and warm hospitality of the people...
 |
| Working the rice terraces |
 |
Fresh native chicken for lunch
|
 |
Burning off the feathers
|
 |
Picnic with the locals
|
 |
View of the rice terraces from the front of
the village
|
 |
Curiosity
|
 |
We stayed in the place up the first ladder
|
 |
Looking at Buscalan from the rice terraces
behind the village
|
 |
Carabao sacrificed for an elder celebrating
his birthday. If you're celebrating a birthday in your 80's or 90's,
the entire village is involved and a feast is prepared.
|
 |
This Carabao was purchase from another
village and broken down in pieces that could be carried in from the
"Turning Point"
|
 |
The men break down the animal further with locally made
knives and hatchets
|
 |
The elder men of the tribe do all the
preparation
|
 |
The women cook the rice... That's
rice for 1000!
|
 |
Kenneth and the Birthday Boy
|
 |
Kenn always making friends where ever we go
|
The Hike In:
Guides
It is not essential to hire a guide, however it
makes things a little easier. The guides can sort out accommodation, help
you logistically including making sure you don't get lost on the hike, and most
importantly, provide you with local insight, historical and cultural
information you won't find in guide books or online.
Francis Pa-in is from Tinglayan and
usually has guest meet him there, or stay there for a night. Because he
is form Tinglayan, he usually suggest you pass through Tinglayan. This
helps his community and the local economy. He has been guiding in the
area for over 20 years and can take you on multiple village treks.
Contact - +63 0915 769 0843
Kuya Charlie Pan-oy is a Buscalan
local, his father is the vice mayor (or was at the time of our visit), he has
lots of relatives in the area and can help you out with anything you
need. Charlie and his relatives are all very accommodation and will take you on day trips and hikes
around the area, and provide history and cultural insight.
+63 0998 188 8697 and +63 0916 605 0430
 |
Charlie and I in front of one of his rooms
|
From the drop off it's about a 30 min hike in along a manicured path,
surrounded by unrivaled beauty. The first half is flat, then gradually
heads down to the waterfall where many of the villagers swim, bathe and
relax. From there it's up, but there are stairs the entire way. The
quickness the locals ascend and descend is amazing, even those on in their
later years. After roughly 15 mins up you've arrived.
 |
The cut through the trees on the right is
the trail in and out
|
 |
You see the school on your right as you
arrive at the village
|
|
Whang-Od:
After losing her husband at the age of 25, Whang-Od dedicated her life to the traditional tattoo art of the Kalinga head hunters mambabatok. She would never marry again, instead she devoted her life to the art which she learned from her father. Now at the age of 96 she continues to share her craft with visitor's from all over the world. Her niece Grace, started as her apprentice at the age of eleven. Now at eighteen she shares the duties with Whang-Od, tattooing the curious visitors and having the daunting task of preserving this beautiful body art. When not tattooing, Whang-Od can be found tending to her pigs, feeding her chickens and doing other mountain village life chores.
Tattoo:
Some people let Whang-od or Grace (Whang-od's
niece) choose the design, some collaborate with them. Some bring a
design, and some choose a design from the books at Whang-od's. That being
said don't be too fussy if you bring your own design. Whang-od won't take
shit from anyone. She has been known to stop during the session and walk
away. Keep in mind, this is not your every day tattoo shop, you are there
to visit her and witness a legend at work, and maybe take home a permanent
souvenir. That is her home, you are a guest, she is there with or without
you. And if you do decide to get a tattoo, respect the art and the
culture.
 |
The Master
|
|
 |
Grace and Whang-od in action
|
 |
Close up
|
|
Getting there:
There are a few different options
From Manila
Manila-Bontoc
Cable tours used to have a direct trip to Bontoc,
however they were sold to Florida Transport and the private sale was not
authorized by the LTFRB, therefore they were driving the route unauthorized.
A Florida bus crashed Feb. 7, 2014 killing 14 people, including artist,
backpackers and foreign nationals, a Canadian and a Dutchman. The
route has since been suspended.
Manila-Baguio-Buntoc-Buscalan
Manila to Baguio bus:
The good thing about this new site is that it lays
out all the times and fees for all the bus companies for the route you're
searching, and all the different terminals so you don't have to jump from site
to site to choose the best bus company according to time and terminal.
Keep in mind, at this time, if you book online it has to be 3 days prior to your departure.
There are many options hourly throughout the course
of the day. It's better you check with one of the sites I've provided
close to your desired travel day.
Victory Liner Bus 651 651 EDSA Pasay City, Metro Manila, Philippines.
1:00am Departure/ETA 6:00am (6 Hours) ₱ 455.00
Buses run every hour on the hour. ex:
Next bus at 2:00am, 3:00am ect.
1:15am Departure/ETA 6:00am (5.45 Hours) ₱ 750 (First Class) Recommended
4 different times available throughout the
day (24hrs).
Victory liner bus schedule:
Victory liner bus schedule:
 |
Victory Liner Bus
|
Genesis Transport 101-A Giselle Park
Plaza, EDSA, corner Rotonda, Pasay.
12:00am Departure/EAT 8:00am (8 Hours) ₱ 456.00
Buses run every hour on the hour. ex: Next
bus at 1:00am, 2:00am ect.
3:00am Departure/EAT 9:00am (6 Hours) ₱ 700.00 (JoyBus Deluxe)
5 different times available throughout the day
(24hrs).
I recommend either the JoyBus, which is Genesis
Transport's deluxe bus, or the First Class bus with Victory Liner . I
prefer to take the overnight bus and sleep on the bus. It is a little
more expensive, however it is faster because there is no traffic, it saves on
accommodation and you don't lose a day to travel.
 |
Joy Bus
|
Via Baguio:
Baguio-Bontoc-Buscalan
D'Rising Sun D' Rising Sun Bus Terminal,
Magsaysay Road. Check at the terminal for times.
GL Lizardo Trans Buses depart 5am-1pm
from the Dangwa Terminal, get there early.
Ticket booth opens at 5:30am, we arrived at 4:45am
and there were already more than 30 people in front of us. There are only
a few buses so don't take chances, get there early. We were there during
the holidays so it was busier than normal but by the time we left there were
hundreds of people waiting. They say first trip is at 6am but once the
bus is full they leave, and depending on the time of year there could be fewer
buss.
Always confirm at the terminal.
You'll travel along the highest highway in the
Philippines, Halsema Highway. The Halsema highway was once
considered one of the top ten most dangerous roads in the world, and remains
the most dangerous road in the Philippines and for good reason.
The highway zigzags up and down making it's way through the Cordillera Central
mountain range. Crazy bus drivers, fog, potential landslides, and
breathtaking scenery make for an exhilarating ride.
Via Bontoc
Bontoc-Buscalan
Go to the Sadanga Jeepney Terminal (map on
right) on Bontoc-Tabuk road. There is a jeep that goes directly to the "turning
point" which is the end of the road to Buscalan, so your hike is only
30 min. Alternatively take the jeep to Tinglayan or Bugnay, the
start of the path to Buscalan is just before the town of Bugnay. From here
you hike up the road to the "turning point" and follow the path to
Buscalan.
 |
| Bugnay Proper |
Via Tabuk
Manila-Tabuk-Bugnay-Buscalan
Victory Liner Kamias #766 EDSA corner
East Avenue, Queon City.
8:45pm Departure/ETA 3:45am (7 Hours) ₱ 569.00
7:25pm Departure/ETA 2:25am (7 Hours) ₱ 680.00 (Deluxe)
8:45pm Departure/ETA 3:45am (7 Hours) ₱ 569.00
9:10pm Departure/ETA 4:10am (7 Hours) ₱ 569.00
Victory liner bus schedule:
Take a jeep to Bontoc or Tinglayan on
Kalinga-Cagayan rd.
Jeeps and mini buses run regularly, that being
said it is the Philippines and in small towns they usually wait until the
jeep is full before they leave.
Both routes will get you to Tinglayan,
however only the Bontoc Jeep will take you to Bugnay and the
trail head, tell the jeep driver you want to jump out at the trail-head.
Alternatively you could head to Tinglayan,
spend a few hours or a night and then continue on to Bugnay.
Via Bunaue:
Manila-Bunaue-Bontoc-Buscalan
Ohayami Trans , Lacson Ave
corner of Fajardo St, Sampaloc, Manila.
One trip per day and 2 trips per day in the peak
season.
10:00pm Departure/ ETA7:00-7:30am (9-10 Hours) ₱ 470.00
9:00pm Departure/ETA 6:30-7:00am (9-10 Hours)
Holiday Season Only ₱ 470.00
☎+63 09175617344 Check the website for up to date schedules.
Jeep to Bontoc departing from:
Banaue town center between
7:00-8:00am (2-3 hours) ₱ 150
"Rice Terraces Viewpoint" between
11:00am-12:00pm (2-3 hours) ₱ 150
See Bontoc-Buscalan for connection
Good things to know before visiting Buscalan and Whang-od - The kids will ask for candy and in most blogs you will see they recommend bringing candy. Oral hygiene doesn't seem to be high on the priority list so even though they love candy, some pencils or pencil crayons and colouring books might be a better option. - The adults appreciate matches and candles, and if you happen to be there for a slaughter, the men like laundry bar soap to wash up with. - No appointments for tattoos, first come first serve. If your time is limited, wake up early and head to Whang-od's so your first in line. That being said, you're tattoo will start when Whang-od and or Grace is ready. - No ATM, closes one is in Bontoc - Food - Not much in the way of fresh vegetables and protein in the village to purchase other than canned goods. So either arrange to have your meals prepared by your host, or bring a few things to cook. - Limited to no cell phone reception. Kuya Charlie some how magically has signal so if you really need to call someone, find him. - Whang-od appreciates beaded necklaces and bracelets. - If you have the chance to "Top Load" on the Jeep... do it, keep your camera ready, but hold on!
More destination to come including:
Antique
Apo Island
Bacolod
Baguio
Baler
Bohol
BunaueCamiguin Coron Dumaguete
El Nido
SagadaLa Union Laog Iloilo Pagudpod Puerto Princesa San Vincente Siargao Taal Lake Tagaytay Vigan
My wife and I have been traveling around the Philippines on and off for the last 4+years and have been to many different places, by plane, boat, car, bus, jeep, tricycle, motor bike, and foot.
Please feel free to ask questions about the above destinations in the comments.
Thank you for visiting! |
||||
